Herbal Skin Care

Source: Tufts University
April 30, 2002 (Reviewed: April 6, 2004)

People seeking relief from chronic skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis are increasingly turning to "alternative" herbal remedies. Some of these plant-based products, like aloe vera and witch hazel, have long been used to sooth skin inflammation, but few have undergone the scrutiny of clinical testing on humans. A report in the Archives of Dermatology discusses the science behind several herbal remedies.

Researchers from the University of California surveyed 22 test-tube, animal, and human studies that looked at the effect of specific plant extracts on skin health. They highlighted several herbal preparations that scientists think may help treat skin conditions.

New uses for common plants

One that most people probably already have in their kitchen cabinet is tea, commonly used as a home remedy for sunburn. Both green and black tea-leaves contain tannins, which constrict blood vessels and tighten the skin tissue when applied to the skin surface. In one study, a diluted solution of green tea infused in alcohol and water applied to the skin reduced redness in volunteers exposed to ultraviolet radiation from a sun lamp. Green tea extracts have also been shown to reduce the amount of sun-related skin damage in patients using Psoralen-UV-A, a treatment for psoriasis.

Other common plants also appear to provide some skin protection. In one study, spearmint extract acted as an antioxidant, protecting skin cells in mice from oxygen-related damage. In another, lavender oil reduced the allergic reaction in mice exposed to chemicals.

Two over-the-counter herbal products currently getting attention are borage and primrose oil. Both contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid thought to be lacking in people who suffer from atopic dermatitis (eczema). Some studies suggest that these herbs may help reduce skin inflammation, but at this point the evidence is far from conclusive.

Use with care

The authors point out that determining the effectiveness of a particular herbal treatment is difficult. Many of the studies cited here were done on animals; it is not clear if an effect on animal skin translates to an effect on human skin. Also, some of the human studies were not randomized, meaning that those with the most diseased skin and who had the most to gain from treatment were given first access to the herb under study.

American consumers in particular should keep in mind that the sale of dietary supplements is not regulated by law, so there is no way of knowing if an herbal supplement marketed in the U.S. actually contains what the label says it does. That's not an issue with something like tea, but it is a potential problem if the product is marketed as a self-help remedy for a specific ailment. And consumers everywhere should never choose an herbal product to treat a skin problem as an alternative to professional medical treatment.

Source

• Exploration of alternative and natural drugs in dermatology. C. Levin, H. Maibach, Arch Derm , 2002, vol. 138, pp. 207--211

Related Links
Choosing Herbal and Botanical Supplements
The Management of Dermatitis
Getting Control of Acne
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